Showing posts with label Iceland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iceland. Show all posts

11 April 2020

The Guardian: “The weird magic of eiderdown”

The practice of poisoning or sedating eiders’ predators was once widespread in Iceland, carried out by farmers and government officials alike. Such techniques may have saved the lives of countless ducks, but they have historically proved highly destructive to the island’s ecosystem. In the early 1980s, for example, more than 4,000 ravens were killed per year under the country’s pest control programme. Worse, the disappearance of Iceland’s white-tailed eagle, which almost went extinct in the 1960s, has been attributed partly to the activities of eiderdown farmers. Although eagle numbers have now recovered, their torrid history speaks of what Andri Snær Magnason, himself an eiderdown farmer, calls the “dark side” of the eiderdown trade: however virtuous harvesters may be, they have a strong incentive to kill any species that threatens the prized bird.


The recent history of the Westfjords is really the story of rural depopulation, of a vanishing culture next to the Arctic Circle. Over the past decade, countless farmers have packed up and left the region, tired of the weather, isolation and poor roads. The region’s tunnels and bridges, intended to increase mobility, have served as escape routes, emptying the fjords of Icelanders. “The government is always making it harder for people”, Magnús said. “There’s so little money in it, being a farmer, it’s becoming a lifestyle choice.”

Unlike many livestock farms in the Westfjords, eider farms are still populated, their down a source of stable income. Faced with rising costs and falling profits, the brothers stopped sheep-farming in 1990. Instead, they chose to specialise in eiderdown. “It’s like a family thing”, Alexíus said. “Everybody helps out.”

Edward Posnett

I’m generally fascinated by all things Iceland, so I couldn’t skip this article about… farming duck feathers… I was a bit puzzled by the tone of the writer, a kind of silent awe, as if it’s some sort of unique activity – maybe it’s unknown in the UK, but down pillows are still pretty common in Romania, as is plucking ducks and geese. Sadly, in this case, it’s also a story about the heavy human impact on the fragile island ecosystem of Iceland – as the massive culling of trees, which Icelanders are now painstakingly trying to grow back. Most traditional activities can’t be practiced at the large scale necessary for our globalized world, so I think it’s best to find alternatives, both for the farmers and for the products, rather than continuing to harm the environment with excessive farming.

07 March 2020

Vox: “My own private Iceland”

My first stop after Keflavik is the Blue Lagoon, a short, sparsely filled bus ride away. It’s recognizable from photos: a luminous pool of bright-blue water, like an aqueous latte, set amid jagged black volcanic rocks. But rather than the idyllic natural hot spring it resembles on Instagram, it’s actually a kind of giant artificial bathtub filled with wastewater from a nearby geothermal power plant. The Svartsengi power plant opened in 1976 and its superheated liquid and steam bubbled up through the surrounding lava field; one psoriasis patient bathed in it and saw an improvement and thus a business began.

Blue Lagoon built a cement-bottomed pool that spreads out in a faux-organic layout and a clutch of modernist spa buildings. In 2017, the site accommodated 1.2 million visitors who buy timed entrance tickets and pay extra for bathrobes and drinks at the lagoon’s float-up bar. “Can you imagine how many people have sex in it?” the Icelandic politician Birgitta Jonsdottir later asks me. The 240°C water that gets pumped from deep underground is so mineral-heavy, however, that no bacteria can survive, even after it gets cooled down to bathing temperature for visitors to soak in.

Kyle Chayka

Last year I visited Iceland for the second time, after my city break in Amsterdam, and still many of the stories and facts from this article were unknown to me. Compared to the spring of 2016, I’ve noticed how tourism changed some of the popular sports we visit as photographers, which now had fences to keep people from walking too far in dangerous places, or to step on delicate flora. As the article discusses at lengths, the massive inflow of tourists has been a double-edged sword for Iceland. But, no matter how much locals complain about it, the country has benefitted from an tourist-induced economic boom for the past decade. It will be interesting to see how recent travel restrictions – and wide-spread fear – caused by the coronavirus epidemic will impact Iceland’s popularity as travel destination. I for one am certainly planning to return!